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Climb San Giovanni at dawn.
The fortress climb is 1,350 stone steps up the cliff behind the Old Town. €15 in summer (free in winter). At 06:00 you're alone on the path, the bay is mist-soft, and the temperature is bearable. By 09:00 the cruise tourists arrive and the steps become a slow crocodile. Bring water and grip shoes - the stone is polished.


